With Summer fast approaching maybe it's time for a few Alpine ticklist ideas? The problem is that "5 Best Routes" really isn't enough. Maybe 50 best routes would be better? (Or a cheeky 5 worst Routes?) Anyway, here are 5 very good ones from last year.
1: Mont Blanc de Cheilon traverse. Rarely busy, usually done from the Dix hut but maybe even better from the Vignettes if you haven't been up the Pigne d'Arolla. The tricky bit is short and only just AD, so it works well as a step-up in grades, or as a lung-busting acclimatiser...
2: South Ridge of the Aletschorn. This one is very, very long...but a spectacular peak in the heart of the Oberland. Be acclimatised! A second night in the excellent Oberaletsch hut is a good idea.
3: Tour Ronde North Face. A classic, and it's in Chamonix so gets busy! Definitely a Spring/early Summer route, when you should find sustained steep snow with an exciting crux through the narrows - think Scottish 3 for a few pitches.
4: Lenzspitze-Nadelhorn traverse. 2x4000s in one amazing traverse. Hard to beat at the grade, this route has a bit of everything and some really exposed climbing.
5: Biancograt on Piz Bernina. Very famous, very long, very worth it. The "bianco" bit isn't always the crux. In good snowy conditions it's quite easy but very exposed, and the rocky ridge to the summit will be the more technical climbing. Stay at the quirky Marco e Rosa hut and traverse Piz Palu the next day for a 5* PD ridge.
6: Matterhorn traverse...the most famous peak in the Alps, famously crowded, an unforgettable feeling to stand on top. Going from the Italian side is longer and harder, but quieter - although you'll still have the Hornli experience on the descent!
7: Eiger traverse. Second most famous peak in the Alps? Less busy, with a friendly small hut and some technical rock - it's not all fixed ropes! Getting to the hut is the tricky climbing, but the Mittelegi ridge needs steady scrambling and some efficient ropework. The "descent" of the South ridge takes as long as the ascent - the summit is definitely only halfway on this one.
There are more pictures in the gallery.
And before anyone points it out - I know that's a list of 7...for starters. And 6 of them are traverses!
