Alpine Climbing & Skiing: Frost Guiding Blog

Climbing the Obergabelhorn

~ Friday 31st August 2018

The Obergabelhorn has 2 very different sides - a huge, snowy North face and a steep cliff of red rock to the South. The fine West-East ridge that splits the two faces is one of the finest ridge traverses in the Alps with a steep ridge of solid gneiss on the West and a fine, airy, mixed ridge dropping East off the summit before climbing back over the Wellenkuppe and down the glacier to the Rothorn hut.

The 4000m peaks guidebook says the ridge is "best climbed when dry and snow-free" - that's good advice, but the evening storms had left a thin dusting of snow which made the climbing quite awkward!

The summit is only halfway there! Descending the East ridge isn't easy, needing careful down-climbing and some abseils on steep, mixed ground with the huge drop of the North face below.

Alpine Progression Course

~ Wednesday 22nd August 2018

A couple of nice photos from this week's Alpine Progression course. Starting at the Orny hut and then a day trip to the Perrons traverse. Thanks James Thacker for the guiding and photography!

Portjengrat, and the return of cooler temperatures

~ Saturday 18th August 2018

People often ask if I get bored repeating the same routes - not when they're as good as the Portjengrat! After 2 days dodging showers on the perfect granite around the Orny hut we went back to Almageller again this week, walking up in rain but (phew!) finding dry rock on the excellent, sustained and tricky Portjengrat the following day. A sunny morning on the Dri Hornli rounded off a really good trip (sometimes written "Horlini" but it turns out "hornli" and "horlini" mean the same thing)

Long, Hot Summer in the Alps

~ Wednesday 8th August 2018

It's a record-breaking summer in the Alps with temperatures reaching 36.2 degrees in Sion - the hottest ever recorded in Switzerland. Memories of the cold, snowy winter are fading fast, but there's still been some great conditions in the mountains with Frostguiding teams climbing the Eiger, Matterhorn, Dufourspitze, Dent Blanche, Eveque - and lots of other peaks!

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