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Alpine Climbing & Skiing: Frost Guiding Blog

Climbing the Tsa, Besso and Blanc de Moming

~ Saturday 29th August 2015

This week's Alpine Progression Course, like last week, started with some pretty poor weather - rain in the valley and snow high up. Good for the glaciers but not so nice for the Bertol hut walk-in! We were slightly damp by the time we reached the hut, and we spent the afternoon nervously watching the snow fall and wondering why there was no-one else there...

Happily the morning brought perfect weather and a beautiful day on a snowy Aiguille de la Tsa.

Dawn light over the Dent Blanche, Matterhorn and Dent d'Hérens

Snowy climbing on the Tsa top pitch

Re-fuelled and ready for more we tackled the "long but scenic" approach to the Grand Mountet hut on Tuesday. Plan A had been the Zinal Rothorn but it was still looking plastered with snow, so we aimed for Besso instead. This is a good plan B, with lots of climbing on solid red rock, great positions and fine views (and a bit of Valais rubble thrown in for good measure)

Fine climbing on good, red rock on Besso

Down-climbing the fine arete that leads to Blanc de Moming

And back up the first pinnacle

There are several pinnacles, some you go round, some you have to go over...

Great intermediate climbing with Frost Guiding

It's hard not to be distracted by the view from Blanc de Moming

Guarding the cairn!

Alpine Mountaineering: Eveque, Mont Blanc de Cheilon, Pointes de Mourtis, Dent des Rosses

~ Saturday 22nd August 2015

After a long, hot summer the weather finally cracked this week and it rained...then snowed! Luckily things cleared up fast, but left some challenging conditions in the mountains with fitness and some "Scottish" techniques required to climb anything! Big efforts from our IFMGA mountain guides and clients alike saw some good results though - Dufourspitz, Dent Blanche South ridge, Pigne d'Arolla, Mont Blanc de Cheilon traverse and normal route, L'Éveque traverse and normal route...and a lot of tired, sunburned but smiling faces around the table on Friday night!

Pictures here from the Alpine Progression course, with a very keen team of 4.

Day 2, on the snowy Pointes de Mourtis-Dent des Rosses traverse

Day 3, the excellent Couronne de Bréona traverse

Cunning tactics required to cross the Éveque bergschrund

Airy positions on the Éveque SW ridge

And the higher you go, the "airier" it gets

Descent on the Éveque normal route

Sw ridge on the right, normal route on the left skyline

Sun halos and snow mid-way on the Cheilon traverse

Smiles all round on the final arete, Mont Blanc de Cheilon

Mont Blanc de Cheilon from near the Cabane des Dix

Climbing the Dent Blanche

~ Saturday 8th August 2015

Dent Blanche, emblem of the Val d'Hérens, and a beautiful climb on solid rock. A great end to the week. Rather than the long slog back down to the valley, we spent a pleasant afternoon enjoying the hut hospitality, then trekked out via Tete Blanche and Bertol yesterday.

Climbing Dent Blanche Grand Gendarme

Mountain Guide Dent Blanche

British Mountain Guide. Mountaineering on Dent Blanche

Dent Blanche Summit!


"The woods are lovely, dark and deep,

But I have promises to keep,

And miles to go before I sleep,

And miles to go before I sleep"

Climbing the Matterhorn and more...

~ Tuesday 4th August 2015

Busy times with the alpine season in full swing. As the seemingly endless spell of perfect weather in the Swiss Alps continues (touch wood, fingers crossed...) and memories of last year's awful weather begin to fade, the list of routes climbed by our British Mountain Guides is growing fast...

Matterhorn, Eiger, Dent Blanche, Obergabelhorn, Salbit South Ridge, Weisshorn, Mont Blanc de Cheilon, l'Éveque, Finsteraarhorn, Monch...to name a few from the last fortnight.

Pictures here from a few of them...

Mont Blanc de Cheilon traverse British mountain guide

Guided climbing in the alps

Matterhorn Hornli Ridge Mountain Guide

Climb the Matterhorn with Alpine Guide

Fixed ropes, Matterhorn. Guided climbing alps

Dawn on the Eiger Mittelegi (pic Andy Perkins)

Climbing the Eiger British Mountain Guide

Salbit South Ridge British mountain guide

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