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Alpine Climbing & Skiing: Frost Guiding Blog

Rock Climbing - Bramois

~ Wednesday 28th October 2009

 Great weather here at the moment - cold at nights, but warm days so you can still climb in a t-shirt in the sun. Here's a picture yesterday from the excellent, steep and sportingly bolted Folle Illusion wall at Bramois. 

Graeme Ettle on Folle Illusion, 6b+

V12 Outdoor Online Climbing Shop

~ Wednesday 21st October 2009

 Winter is just around the corner - more snow is forecast here over the next couple of days - so it's a good time to check out the deals on offer at

 V12 Outdoor Online Climbing Shop 

Great prices on ropes, axes, crampons, boots, avalanche kit, plus the top quality Mammut gear and a lot more...

They also have a shop in the Llanberis High Street, so call in next time you're in North Wales.

Sion Crag

~ Thursday 15th October 2009

 This is Roches Brunes, the crag above Follomi Sports in Sion. There's a lot of rock here but there are access issues with most of it. 

Still, it was too cold to climb in Evolene, but very nice in the sun in Sion. The climbing is a bit of a shock after a week of granite in Corsica - it's "classic" steep limestone, polished and harshly graded with most of the climbing being a bit upside down. An outdoor climbing wall. Quality, and you can climb here on warm days all winter. 

Here's an illegible topo - if you want one either ask in Follomi or e-mail me. Route names are painted on the rock.

                                            

                                                    

         There were only 2 other people climbing - a Mr and Mrs Ueli Steck. They were impressed as team Frostguiding on-sighted 2 F7b+ and a 7c. Oops, that should be 6, not 7...

 

 

Corsica Rock Climbing

~ Tuesday 13th October 2009

 Back from an excellent week in Corsica - hot sun, beaches, and some of the best granite rock climbing I've ever done. I didn't know much about Corsica - this was my first visit - but I'm impressed and will be going back!

We started in Restonica with some single pitch sport climbing - bolted granite cragging at its best. The rock here is exceptional quality and weathered in to some incredible features. 

Next we headed down south to Bavella. Another day cragging at the Col de Bavella, then the Petit route on the Punta de l'Acellu - good climbing, worth taking a few friends along as the bolts are a bit spaced. 

Pitch 2 on the Petit route

 

                              

                                     

                 Keen for more, we battled up through the woods to the Punta Rossa to climb Alexandra. 5 Pitches of flawless granite.

 

Pitch 2, Alexandra

      View to le Dos d'Elephant                      

                                            

Back north again to Restonica for more cragging and a night in the excellent Auberge de la Restonica - very comfortable hotel, great food and some eccentric staff!

Last route of the trip was the classic Symphonie d'Automne on the Point des Sept Lacs at the head of the valley - again, 5 pitches of perfect rock in a beautiful mountain setting.  

Pitch 4, Symphonie d'Automne

Itchy Feet!

~ Friday 2nd October 2009

Just had 3 days in Grimentz with John and Nancy from "Itchy Feet" in Bath. Itchy Feet is a travel clothing and equipment retailer, with shops in Bath and London as well as online retailing, run by 2 people with vast travel and adventure experience and a real passion for getting out in the mountains, as well as beaches, deserts, oceans...

We'd been ski touring a couple of years ago, so it was good to see them back for more - this time, an introduction to alpine mountaineering and glacier travel. We went to the Moiry area - perfect terrain for learning the skills you need for glacier travel, and deserted at this time of year. 

Alpine rope work

On the Moiry glacier

 

 

 

 

 

Evolene rock climbing

~ Friday 2nd October 2009

This crag is literally right above the road on the way up from les Hauderes to la Sage, before the tunnel. It's been cleaned and re-bolted, and is now a great spot for a quick visit. The rock is a bit dirty at the bottom, but leads into a steep wall of solid orange rock. Routes are (right to left) 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6a, 5c, 6c+, 7a.

Climbing at Vogler

Moiry Hut

~ Friday 2nd October 2009

Here's a picture of the Moiry Hut extension. Work is going well and it should be ready for next summer. At the moment the hut is closed and there's no winter room - hopefully there will be some winter accommodation ready for the ski season. The Moiry  Hut extension

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